That is where we met Sharif. His real name is not being used. Sharif is from Egypt and has spent decades working along this coastline. In normal times, he told us, tourists would be lining up for him to take them on trips out to sea. Now, there was almost no one.

After some negotiating, he agreed to take us. We paid $120 for two hours.

His boat was a traditional dhow: wooden, worn, painted brown. The kind that has been used in these waters for generations. Inside, embroidered cushions lined the seats.

We climbed aboard…